Correct fitting of the headcollar or halter is essential for the sake of the horse's comfort and safety and for your control over him. There are three sizes: pony, cob and full-size, and some can be adjusted to fit. Leather or nylon headcollars should never be used if they appear worn or with loose stitching, buckles or rings. The same applies to ropes which are used for tying up because they are easily broken. Rack chains are an alternative to a rope for tying up, but they can be dangerous. Great care should be taken that the horse does not take the chain into his mouth, and that the length is suitable so he cannot get his leg over it or put his head underneath it, hooking himself up. Never leave a rack chain in the box when it is not in use or lead a horse with it. Less expensive alternatives, such as plaited baler twine, are a saving if a horse is known to chew a rope and most young horses do so at some stage. While halters may be much less expensive the bull type is not recommended for tying up a horse. The rope which passes under the jaw can tighten onto itself and possibly injure the horse who may, as a consequence, become head-shy. The Yorkshire halter, which is made of webbing and is non-adjustable (unlike the bull halter), is safer to use for tying up because a rope or chain can be attached to it.

The principal thing to remember when tying up a horse is always tie the animal to an immovable fixture, never to anything which could move if he pulled back. A tie-ring should be cemented into the wall, no less than 5 ft (150 cm) from the ground. Below that height there is a danger that the horse could catch his leg over the rope. Secondly, to avoid the risk of the horse breaking a headcollar, halter or rope, if he pulls back, be sure to have a short piece of string (a loop) attached to the ring and fasten the rope or chain to this not to the ring. Never tie a horse so that he can graze, because of the risk of him getting his foot over the rope.

A horse should first be taught to accept being tied up in a stable, preferably by two people, one of whom should be at his head and the other behind him teaching him to accept the restriction and not pull back. He can also be taught to move over from side to side whilst he is tied. Time spent on this part of his education is an investment for once he has learnt properly he will know what is expected of him. If at this stage he learns to pull back and break loose he will always try it and thus become a nuisance.

When approaching a horse that is tied up be sure he knows that you are there; do not risk walking straight up to his quarters and patting him. Let him see you at his side first and reassure him before you do anything to him.